This is the form made from oak. After I cut out the hole & routed a 1/2" bevel on the inside I ran the board through the planer to reduce it to 1/2" thickness. |
Notice the pins in the center of the window. They will keep the press on center. I also used roll pins to hold the wood form in place. |
This is a test piece of metal and the pressing plate sitting in position. |
I used a pair of 12,000 lb jacks. As it turned out I probably could have used only one jack. |
The clamps are holding the sides so they don't buckle inward. I ended up using a lot more clamps than pictured here. |
Here it is half way pressed in. |
Finished test piece. ( the holes are for the centering pins). Notice the buckling in the corners. This tells me to get a better clamping system for the next test. When I apply the pressure, the metal should be stretching from the center & not the outside. |
Making new Doors: The biggest challenge is to form the inner panel where the window opening bends into the rubber molding. I made this press to form that piece. The bottom plate is 1/4" steel plate reinforced with 4" channel iron. The uprights are 4" channel & the beams are 6". |
This page was last updated on: January 9, 2005
Ok, I've decided to make new doors, Here's how it's going...... |
This is my 4th test piece. #2 buckled in a different place than #1, & #3 I wasted by cutting it incorrectly. This piece turned out perfect. I am really pleased. I corrected the stretching problem by cutting out the window ( a little bit undersized), and using more clamps. |
The next step is to get the sheet metal to make the doors. I have an 8' metal brake already. I found the hinges on the web & I have the correct rivets. I also have to make the trim strip that goes between the doors on the outside. That should be interesting. |
Bending the sides on the 8' brake. |
Here's my new 4' Box & Pan Brake. I'm bending the ends of the inside door piece. |
Wow! Here's the two pieces to my first door. Once I put them together I can then cut out the window opening to the correct size. |
Odctober 18,2003: Each door is actually a bi-fold door 24" X 72". The rear half is 12" wide and the forward half is 11-5/8". They are connected with a piano hinge & another piano hinge attaches the door to the door post. |
October 18, 2003: Finally found the time to get to the shop. Here's the four door panels cut out & bent. The panel on the left is completed. The others need the window pressed & cut out. |
Using the Plasma Cutter, this is cutting out the window opening after spot welding the two shells together. |
Why is it that the neatest tools (Toys) you have get used the least? I love to use this riveter. Here I'm riviting the door opener support plate in place. These are the same fasteners used by the factory, it looks great. |
Doors all welded & cut-out. All they need now are the hinges & trim strip spot welded on. Here I put a coat of self etching primer on them. |
This is the completed 12" door panel. I do need more practice with the new spot welder, it seems I'm burning holes. |
New transmission tunnel: December 20,2003 |
New transmission tunnel: The original one is rusted, dented and pitted beyond repair. I made a buck out of 2X4's & plywood from measurements of the old tunnel. Then using heavy construction paper I create a pattern of the sheetmetal by pinning the paper to the buck & marking and trimming it. |
After cutting out the sheet metal ( I used 20ga.) I clamp the metal to the buck and slowly press the sides down by hand. They roll down real easy. I clamped the lower part in place and then used a torch to apply heat where metal bends. When it cools it will hold it's shape. |
Here's the new one next to the old. |
The buck doubled as a hammerform. The tunnel has flanges that will weld up to the firewall plate. Left picture shows the flange as I hammered it flat. Right picture shows the tunnel butted to the firewall plate. |
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